Sirbaz Khan Becomes First Pakistani To Scale 9 Of World’s 14 Highest Peaks

Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has become the first-ever Pakistani to climb nine of the world’s 14 highest peaks, each more than 8,000 meters high. He made this record shortly after he scaled the 8,167-metre-high Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal, as confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary, Karrar Haidri and Khan’s Instagram post.

The peaks he has climbed so far include Nanga Parbat, K2, Lhotse, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Annapurna, Mount Everest, 8th Gasherbrum II, and Dhaulagiri. Out of all expeditions, Gasherbrum II holds a special place in his career as he had organized and led the expedition himself. Furthermore, his team member Naila Kiani became the first Pakistani woman to reach the summit of any 8000 meter high mountain inside Pakistan. She made this achievement under his guidance and leadership. 

32-year-old Sirbaz Khan hails from Aliabad, Hunza, and began his professional climbing career in 2016. He became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain at 8,516m in Nepal without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Sirbaz Khan’s other 8,000 meter summits include K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Anapurna, Everest Gasherbrum II, and now Dhaulagiri.

Khan has often mentioned on social media that he wants to raise the Pakistani flag above the death zone and wants his country’s mountaineering heroes to be recognized worldwide. He dedicates his mission to his mentor Mohammad Ali Sadpara, the only Pakistani to have climbed eight of the world’s 14 highest mountains. He had made the first ever winter ascent of the world’s ninth highest peak, Nanga Parbat. Sadpara lost his life while attempting to conquer mount K2 in February this year.

Khan had the honor of accompanying the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara on four of his 8,000 metre summits and their last expedition together was from Nepal to Manaslu.

We congratulate Sirbaz Khan for his achievements and wish him all the best for his future endeavors. May he continue to gain recognition for Pakistan.